All the opportunities I missed because I’m so obsessively addicted to surfing. Don’t be me. I don’t have what most human beings want.
I can’t be at war with Mark Foo. If I wanted to go to war with somebody, they would cease to exist. I would win.
I’m totally into procedures and rules. We run a tight ship in my group.
It has created junkies out of most of us. Surfing junkies right? Our whole lives we drop everything to go surfing and we always will.
It’s not about surviving, I know I am going to survive, it’s all about reacting the best possible way to deal with the situation that I am in.
It’s not as hard as it looks. It’s just a question of getting your mouth at the right angle.
I’ve only known two people who successfully negotiated a triple hold. After that, you’re out of luck.
Not all surfers are big-wave surfers.
One of our biggest fears is that some surfer with the desire who hasn’t paid his dues will go out during a major swell and get hurt or even killed.
People who surf big waves on a regular basis don’t consider it a death defying act. We don’t keep the danger in our minds at all.
The ocean represents balance in my life. I get frustrated with the daily struggle of my “real life” out of the water, and being in the water in the surfer world is the antidote to that.
To get beat up by a wave, survive it, and get up to do it again in the space of 15 minutes is as much about physical conditioning as it is about mental toughness.
Unless you’ve fallen in smaller waves, and gradually build up, you won’t know how to react in a big wipeout.
You can’t imagine the thrill of riding a forty or fifty foot wave.