The world doesn’t need more conformists. If you don’t fin in, celebrate that, and then get ready to stand your ground.
Surfing’s one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what’s behind.
The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.
Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.
For those searching for something more than just the norm. We lay it all down, including what others call sanity, for just a few moments on waves larger than life. We do this because we know there is still something greater than all of us. Something that inspires us spiritually. We start going downhill, when we stop taking risks.
If you cultivate something in your mind, you give it a life. It’s really that simple.
A little adrenaline every day keeps the boredom away.
Make sure you worst enemy doesn’t live between your own two ears.