It’s like the mafia. Once you’re in – your in. There’s no getting out.
Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.
It’s all about where your mind’s at.
The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.
I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it’s almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.
The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun.
Out of water, I am nothing.
Surfing’s one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what’s behind.
The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.
Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.
I’m just a surfer who wanted to build something that would allow me to surf longer.
I took off on a wave, went down the side, popped out the other end, and went, shit, I’m still alive!
It’s a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.
I surf to get tan.
If in doubt, paddle out.
It’s not tragic to die doing something you love.
I’ve committed to surfing the rest of my life.
I try changing my surfing, which is the absolute worst thing you can do. Everyone surfs their own way. If I try to surf like someone else I look like a dork.
Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear.
Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you’ve done it.
Surfing is for life.
If there was no such thing as barrels I probably wouldn’t even surf.
You can’t stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.
One drop in is an accident, two is rude, three is a twatable offence.
Sometimes in the morning, when it’s a good surf, I go out there, and I don’t feel like it’s a bad world.
Surfing soothes me, it’s always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I’m on a wave.
One of the greatest things about the sport of surfing is that you need only three things: your body, a surfboard, and a wave.
I’ve tried body surfing. It’s nice.
Surfing is the most blissful experience you can have on this planet, a taste of heaven.
There is nothing, nothing, more sad than a surfer who used to surf.
I love surfing more than cricket. It’s more interesting and you meet great people.
There’s nothing quite like surfing by yourself in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, but unpredictable weather patterns, below deck accommodation, sea snakes, coral cuts and packs of reef sharks make it a trip for the committed seadog.
Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life.
Surfing is such an amazing concept. You’re taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, ‘I’m gonna ride you!’ And a lot of times Nature says, ‘No you’re not!’ and crashes you to the bottom.
Eddie would go.
If it swells, ride it!
I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea.
Captain James Cook
Surfing’s the source. Can change your life. Swear to god.
Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true.
Charlie don’t surf.
Lt Col William Kilgore
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