At 13 years old, I was suicidal.
Big wave surfing is like a lost art.
I never trained a lot.
I thought big Makaha and the North Shore’s outer reefs were the next step for me as a surfer. I was wrong. There were lessons, to be learned at Pico Alto. One of them being: no matter where it’s breaking, a big wave is a big wave. Period.
If you want the ultimate thrill, you’ve got to be willing to pay the ultimate price.
My life is surfing.
Peru has got, besides the North Shore of Oahu, perhaps the biggest surfable waves in the world.
Surfing and Martial Arts are really similar. It’s not just a recreation, a sports or a hobby. If you’re into it, it’s a way of living, a lifestyle. You live it, you don’t just do it.
The goal is not to do movies, TV series or be in the magazines. The goal is, because I love surfing, is to present the sport, publicize the surfers and see them get the credit they deserve.
You could be towed by boat or jetski, but is that surfing?